First, Our engine hoist gets put into service again.  2 7/16” bolts and chain suspend the transmission case vertical at just the right height for holding the torque converter while making adjustments so it seats in the correct position.

Next, we examine the input shaft recess and note exactly where the rotor lugs are positioned (arrow) This is important so later we can get the converter impeller shaft slots engaged fully.

Putting in a torque converter can take a few minutes or a few frustrating hours. Here we quickly install our new converter from Phoenix. The method shown here almost guarantees immediate and full engagement of the converter on the first try.

Then we make sure both the input and reaction shafts have a spline lined up exactly in the middle of the rotor lug.  We mark the splines with a marker.

We take a metal straight edge and mark a point on the bell housing in a line directly across from the spline we marked. Since there are 24 splines on the input shaft, line up the 13th spline with the one marked.

Next we take our handy straight edge and sliding it into the converter, we make sure there are two spline grooves perfectly lined up with the slots in the converter shaft.

Now we locate which tooth is directly in line with the slots in the shaft.  We mark the tooth on the other side - that is the key mark we need to line up the converter.

Its a good idea to prime the converter with some trans fluid. Here we add a quart. Add it slowly so the air can get out.  Then slowly turn over the converter and catch any excess.

We found that rather than hold the converter by the teeth when placing it into the bellhousing, a handle makes it easier.  Here we use a section of chain mounted with the flexplate bolts.

Lining up the mark we made on the bellhousing and the mark we made on the converter, we gently lower this 28 pounder and “sense” the splines as they mesh.  Depending on the accuracy of the previous steps, the converter will slide all the way to the bottom, engaging two shafts and the lugs.

We check to make sure the converter is at least 1/2” below the bellhousing.  If it is not, then the lugs are not engaged.  Some adjusting may still be necessary.

After the converter is properly seated,  we certianly want to ensure the converter will not slide out during transfer to the tansmission jack and during the installation process. An ordinary shelf bracket can be fabricated to hold the converter in place.

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